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昨晚做梦的时候,突然梦到了吃饺子。应该也不是最近吃得不好,毕竟这两天吃了最好吃的Uni,恰到好处的炸猪排,现做的Soba和香喷喷的牛尾汤拉面,到底有什么不满足的呢?也许是快一年没吃过饺子的缘故,也许是昨晚读了一晚的檀香刑,开始有点想念那些土话和土产。
俗话说:好吃不过饺子,好玩不过嫂子。后面这段先按下不表,只说前面这段。饺子好吃是有原因的。外国人总是分不清饺子,包子,抄手,云吞和馄饨,毕竟都是淀粉包肉呢!可是味道却大有不同。后面三个倒是亲戚,毕竟都是用切得方方正正的薄面皮,包上鲜肉馅。区别就在于配料的不同了,云吞和馄饨都得盛上熬得上好的骨头汤,撒上切得细细的青葱,唯一的不同是云吞里还有煮好的细面。喝上一口汤,咬一口馄饨,扎实紧致的肉馅,和骨头汤混在一起,让人分不清到底是汤鲜还是肉鲜。同是方正面皮包的抄手就有些许的不同了。抄手的馅常常要炒到半熟,有滋有味才开始包。煮熟的抄手要浇上红红辣辣的上好四川辣椒油,这才算是一碗好吃够劲的红油抄手。咬一口,先是辣椒油披头盖脸地把嘴烫得吱吱叫,把舌头的位蕾打开之后,抄手馅的百般滋味才混着淀粉慢悠悠地游进来,这时候,身体的每个毛孔都舒展开,再喝上一口啤酒,真是带劲。
说起包子,南方和北方的做法又不大一样。上海的汤包固然好吃,遗憾的却是没有那股淀粉和肉汁水乳交融的和谐感。于是只好靠蟹黄提鲜,来藏住肉油的腻味。其实,北方的鲜肉包和酱肉包才是最好吃最正宗的。上蒸屉之后,鲜肉里的脂肪开始融化,浸到柔软棉致的面皮里。这样做出来的包子,咬上一口,嘴里的脂肪和淀粉便开始自在地跳舞。或鲜香,或咸甜,口味重的,还可以沾上一点山西老陈醋,放两片大葱。
但是最好吃的,还是饺子。爸爸不会做饭,小时候,若中午的时候妈妈来不及回家,就只好带我下馆子。常去的正是一家饺子馆。三两水饺,一碗排骨汤,就是一顿正餐,能吃到肚子滚圆。饺子只有两种王道的做法,或蒸或煮(平底锅煎这样的路数,纵然好吃,也只能是旁门左道了),蒸道蒸饺,煮道水饺。而这家饺子馆,只擅长的是水饺。水饺的门道,在于馅好,皮包得扎实,如若把面皮给煮开了,便前功尽弃。毕竟是行家,饺子馆里的水饺从来都是不粘不破,一个个白白净净。馅数猪肉萝卜的最好,七分瘦,三分肥的猪肉,细细剁碎,掺入萝卜丝,白菜。等到饺子煮好,一咬开,瘦肉精嫩,肥肉的油水全被萝卜吸得饱饱的,不油不腻,倒是有几分萝卜的清香。饺子馆的红油是特制过的,比平时的辣椒红油更粘稠几分。饺子本皮光面滑,酱油醋都得滑将下来,唯有这特制的红油把饺子涂成了个大红花脸,放进嘴里,辣椒的香,饺子皮的滑,猪肉馅的鲜嫩,萝卜的清甜都混在一起,让人欲罢不能。
冬至到了,是时候熬一大锅的羊肉排骨萝卜干汤,煮上半斤猪肉水饺了。
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